On the island of Okinawa, Japan, the chill vibes of a beach vacation hot spot have an unexpected architectural backdrop. Most of the buildings are made of harsh, imposing concrete.
The contrast is a result of the islandās unique conditions. A combination of climate and war have turned Okinawa into an accidental treasure trove of brutalismāthe chunky concrete architecture that the architectĀ Le Corbusier referred to asĀ bĆ©ton brutĀ (raw concrete). One estimate suggests more than 90% of all new buildings constructed there are made of concrete.
Paul Tulett is a British-born photographer who lives in Okinawa and has been documenting the islandās concrete buildings on hisĀ Instagram account. He says theyāre both a response to the islandās frequent typhoons and its rough years after enduring one of the most brutal battles of World War II,Ā a conflict between U.S. and Japanese forcesĀ that lasted nearly three months and claimed hundreds of thousands of lives.
āThis place got absolutely destroyed,ā Tulett says. The seven-year postwar American occupation was one massive reconstruction effort, and concrete became a material of choice. āLetās build quickly and cheaply. Thatās all it was,ā Tulett says. Throughout the 1950s, in Okinawa and around the world, brutalism boomed.
Now, 50 years after Japan regained sovereignty over Okinawa from the U.S., Tulettās photography puts this utilitarian rebuilding into fresh lightāat least for audiences outside Okinawa. He notes that ā99.9% of the people that live here donāt give a f*** about what Iām shooting.ā
Some are standout pieces of civic architecture on this island of 1.5 million people.Ā Thereās Nago City Hall, which looks like a collection of delicately stacked concrete Lego canopies. Thereās also the Naha Prefectural Museum, with mesa-like forms and pocked windows that make it look like a stone version ofĀ an alien fromĀ Dr. Who.
Others are everyday buildings, from barber shops to modest homes. āEveryoneās a bit interested in brutalism now. āOoh, isnāt it fancy,’ā Tulett says. āBut here itās just what you do. Itās standard. Things have to be robust and typhoon-proof and thatās it.ā
AsĀ one of the few placesĀ in Japan to record positive population growth rates, Okinawa is likely to continue to see concrete buildings rise. Though theĀ huge carbon footprint of concreteĀ has led many architects to move away from its use, Okinawans still rely on it for safety and utility. Tulett says heās heard some local projects claim to be āeco-brutalism,ā with less concrete and more sustainability features, but most are just conventional concrete construction. āInstead ofĀ bĆ©ton brut, I call itĀ bĆ©ton necessaire,ā he says.
Tulett says he came to appreciate and document these buildings by accident, after a winding education and career that went from chemistry to urban planning to counseling children and adults on the autism spectrum. āItās a case of things threading together without you meaning to thread them together,ā he says. āThe photography was always in the background.ā
After moving to Okinawa three years ago, Tulett was immediately drawn to the islandās concrete buildings. He was reluctant to open a social media account, but the prodding of friends convinced him there was a rabid audience on Instagram for the kinds of photos he was taking, especially anything considered brutalism. He now has more than 38,000 followers. His account handle,Ā @brutal_zen, plays into this fascination, though heās quick to argue that the termĀ brutalism oversimplifies the rationale behind the architecture found in Okinawa. āItās not really a case of whether itās brutalist or not. Itās about whether it will stand up in a typhoon.ā
Unexpectedly, Tulett has found himself a de facto authority on the subject. On March 30, the Japan Society in New York will hostĀ a webinarĀ about the islandās unique architectural heritage, and Tulett will be on the panel to discuss his photography. He says heās hoping to explain that itās not just eye candy or an extension of the bleak and imposing Soviet-style architecture of massive housing blocks. The concrete architecture of Okinawa, brutalist or not, is a solution to a very specific set of problems. His photographs are a way to show that.
āIām just interested in whatās around me and how well itās being preserved,ā he says. āBecause it works.ā